The little train station in San Juan Capistrano sits right in the heart of town. To get from the historic Los Rios Street district to the mission and the rest of town, you must cross its tracks on foot. When the bells ring, signaling the train’s arrival, you’ll see children with parents and grandparents, young couples walking their dogs and locals and tourists alike, all gathering to watch. It’s a rarity in our fast-paced world to take a few minutes for something so simple as marveling at a train making a stop.
Located less than 60 miles south of Los Angeles (just an 80-minute ride on Amtrak’s Pacific Surfliner), San Juan Capistrano may come across as small and sleepy enough that watching trains is a pastime. But its proximity to the ocean — it’s just four miles inland — and its long, fascinating history give the city of 34,000 an enthralling, vibrant feel.
San Juan Capistrano, named for the Italian saint John of Capistrano, is a microcosm for the history of California and much of the West. The region was inhabited by the Indigenous Acjachemen people long before Spanish colonizers (led by Catholic priest Junípero Serra) built a mission and began forcing the Acjachemen to convert to Christianity. They did so primarily by imposing baptisms beginning in 1776. Some baptized workers and mestizo families connected to the mission sometimes lived nearby in adobe houses, one of which (the Ríos house on Los Ríos Street) is still inhabited by descendants of the original builders. The town grew as the mission grew, and it became an agricultural community where large numbers of cattle, sheep and horses were herded. Eventually, with California statehood in 1850 and the introduction of the railroad in 1894, the town further modernized.
There are nearly 100 historical markers around town, denoting the significance of various people and places. One special gem of the area is Los Rios Street, the birthplace of Orange County and the oldest continually inhabited neighborhood in the state. The San Juan Capistrano Historical Society, in the Garcia/Pryor home built between 1870 and 1880 (now the O’Neill Museum), keeps much of the town history alive with photos, books and documents, and offers tours every Saturday at 1 p.m.
Walking around town, you’ll see swallows everywhere. Swallows are depicted in murals, swallow merchandise is available for purchase and swallows are included in the decor in many stores. That’s because the migratory bird makes its way from Argentina to San Juan Capistrano every March. There’s even a popular song about it written by Leon René, “When the Swallows Come Back to Capistrano,” which climbed the charts in 1940 and was recorded by Glenn Miller and Elvis. The birds’ arrival is celebrated with the annual Swallows Day Parade, one of the largest nonmotorized parades in the United States.
For decades people flocked to San Juan Capistrano for the mission. As impressive as the mission is (and truly, it is amazing), there weren’t many other draws for outsiders. Locals knew about a few hot spots but otherwise the town remained mostly a historical landmark. Now things are changing. Many older and underutilized properties have been purchased by the Almquist development company. It renovated the Capistrano Plaza building (now the home to bustling restaurants such as Heritage Barbecue, Mayfield and Breezy) and is responsible for the development of an expansive 60,000-square-foot shopping and dining destination called River Street Marketplace. Almquist is working on bringing to town a hotel, an apartment complex and a concert hall.
For as much as San Juan Capistrano’s history is being passed down to new generations (it’s common to see families hovering over historical plaques and pointing out landmarks around town), the boom in development offers a great opportunity to expand the interest here. These days, one might visit San Juan Capistrano for the enticing new restaurants and innovative gathering spaces. And while here, they also might learn something about how California became what it is today.
The little train station in San Juan Capistrano sits right in the heart of town. To get from the historic Los Rios Street district to the mission and the rest of town, you must cross its tracks on foot. When the bells ring, signaling the train’s arrival, you’ll see children with parents and grandparents, young couples walking their dogs and locals and tourists alike, all gathering to watch. It’s a rarity in our fast-paced world to take a few minutes for something so simple as marveling at a train making a stop.Located less than 60 miles south of Los Angeles (just an 80-minute ride on Amtrak’s Pacific Surfliner), San Juan Capistrano may come across as small and sleepy enough that watching trains is a pastime. But its proximity to the ocean — it’s just four miles inland — and its long, fascinating history give the city of 34,000 an enthralling, vibrant feel.San Juan Capistrano, named for the Italian saint John of Capistrano, is a microcosm for the history of California and much of the West. The region was inhabited by the Indigenous Acjachemen people long before Spanish colonizers (led by Catholic priest Junípero Serra) built a mission and began forcing the Acjachemen to convert to Christianity. They did so primarily by imposing baptisms beginning in 1776. Some baptized workers and mestizo families connected to the mission sometimes lived nearby in adobe houses, one of which (the Ríos house on Los Ríos Street) is still inhabited by descendants of the original builders. The town grew as the mission grew, and it became an agricultural community where large numbers of cattle, sheep and horses were herded. Eventually, with California statehood in 1850 and the introduction of the railroad in 1894, the town further modernized.There are nearly
100 historical markers around town, denoting the significance of various people and places. One special gem of the area is Los Rios Street, the birthplace of Orange County and the oldest continually inhabited neighborhood in the state. The
San Juan Capistrano Historical Society, in the Garcia/Pryor home built between 1870 and 1880 (now the O’Neill Museum), keeps much of the town history alive with photos, books and documents, and offers tours every Saturday at 1 p.m.Walking around town, you’ll see swallows everywhere. Swallows are depicted in murals, swallow merchandise is available for purchase and swallows are included in the decor in many stores. That’s because the migratory bird makes its way from Argentina to San Juan Capistrano every March. There’s even a popular song about it written by Leon René, “When the Swallows Come Back to Capistrano,” which climbed the charts in 1940 and was recorded by Glenn Miller and Elvis. The birds’ arrival is celebrated with the annual Swallows Day Parade, one of the largest nonmotorized parades in the United States.For decades people flocked to San Juan Capistrano for the mission. As impressive as the mission is (and truly, it is amazing), there weren’t many other draws for outsiders. Locals knew about a few hot spots but otherwise the town remained mostly a historical landmark. Now things are changing. Many older and underutilized properties have been purchased by the Almquist development company. It renovated the Capistrano Plaza building (now the home to bustling restaurants such as Heritage Barbecue, Mayfield and Breezy) and is responsible for the development of an expansive 60,000-square-foot shopping and dining destination called
River Street Marketplace. Almquist is working on bringing to town a hotel, an apartment complex and a concert hall.For as much as San Juan Capistrano’s history is being passed down to new generations (it’s common to see families hovering over historical plaques and pointing out landmarks around town), the boom in development offers a great opportunity to expand the interest here. These days, one might visit San Juan Capistrano for the enticing new restaurants and innovative gathering spaces. And while here, they also might learn something about how California became what it is today.No matching places!
The property features three fountains, tiled staircases, arched doorways, fireplaces, fire pits, a spa and courtyards strung with lights and surrounded by several of the property’s 72 olive trees. Every detail reflects the hotel’s dedication to crafting a look and feel reminiscent of the local history. Rates start at $504 (valet parking is $48 per day) and includes entrance into Mission San Juan Capistrano.
These efforts to balance history and inclusivity are central to the experience at the mission, where you’ll want to schedule at least two hours to take in hundreds of years of history. The mission offers tours in five languages (free with admission), giving you time to engage with its collection of historic photos and documents, plein air paintings, liturgical objects, rotating exhibits and the Serra Chapel.Tucked in the back corner of a nondescript stucco plaza right near the train tracks, Mollies is a local fave — and quite possibly one of the best breakfast diners in the state. Salvador Garcia and his son took over the diner — family-run since 1973 — two years ago, keeping its warm, homey feeling intact. Popular dishes still include country fried steak and eggs, chicken and waffles with spicy honey butter and syrup, the triple-decker club sandwich, and biscuits and gravy. Egg plates come with two sides; though toast or home fries are great, better bets are the tortillas, perfectly cooked refried beans or the crispy-outside, tender-inside potatoes. Mexican specialties like green chilaquiles with homemade salsa, carne asada, the machaca plate and huevos rancheros also are standouts. The service is impeccable, with never an empty coffee cup, and the portions are generous enough that you’ll be carrying a to-go box with your leftovers on the way out. Open 364 days, Mollies serves breakfast all day, as well as dinner every night except Sunday, with happy hour from 3 to 6 p.m.While it may seem unusual to have a petting zoo right next to the train station in this little village, the River Street Ranch harkens back to the area’s history, when agriculture was a major part of San Juan Capistrano’s identity and farm animals roamed en masse. The entrance along River Street was once the foot path the Acjachemen used to reach Trabuco Creek to gather water. Outfitted like a little old western town with a faux feed store, jail and blacksmith, the ranch now houses 80 animals, including a curious emu, a llama, an alpaca, horses, sheep and goats that can be brushed, pet and fed. Surprisingly, the stars of the show are the guinea pigs who roam around a maze-like play area until kids select their favorite to visit with and feed. Entry is $15 for adults ($12 for children), with extras like pony rides, mini tractor rides, gem mining and animal feed baskets available for an additional fee. Feeding the animals is a delight for kids, but there’s no rule against adults enjoying the feeling of farm animals nibbling at their hands for morsels of feed.
There are plenty of ways to enjoy the Ecology Center. The Campesino Cafe delivers a delicious but limited menu, with everything grown, prepared and baked on the property. Seasonal favorites include shakshuka and a green goddess salad with Sungold tomatoes, cucumber, Romano beans and an herb-filled dressing, served along with coffee or lightly sweetened aguas frescas. The cafe also offers salsa macha, jam and tomato sauces at the farmstand, along with floral arrangements and freshly picked fruits and veggies. Check the calendar for events such as yoga, eco-tots programs, culinary classes and farm tours. The Community Table dinners, where world-class chefs prepare farm-fresh, locally sourced food over an open fire, sell out quickly, so be sure to book in advance.
It’s hard to beat the Mexican food here. Taco shells and chips are fried to order, and guacamole is made fresh at your table (they go through about 650 avocados a week). The loyal, mostly local staff, some of whom have been with the restaurant for decades, really add to the experience. Plus, there’s plenty of free parking behind the restaurant.
If you can’t find something here, you aren’t trying. Items range in price from a few dollars for a postcard to $25,000 for an actual Tiffany lamp. While there, I spied Limoges boxes, needlepoint cat pictures, antique German Volkstedt clocks, Fitz & Floyd teapots, a push-button phone from the 1996 RNC convention in San Diego (it still works), a factory-sealed 1969 “Abbey Road” album, Life magazines dating back to 1936, Captain America comics, Bakelite kitchenware and a baby blue Remington Streamliner typewriter, plus thousands of other treasures.
Most of the venue’s 500-capacity audience sits at long tables in rows, though there are also banquettes and private viewing rooms available with dinner reservations. The menu is simple but solid, offering steak, swordfish and teriyaki chicken along with classic appetizers. There’s a two-drink (or equivalent) minimum for everyone.
Owner Daniel Castillo and his crew take each ingredient seriously, from the citrus-forward dry rub on the chicken to the chiffonade of epazote on the smoked, grilled-to-order elote corn on the cob. Sustainability is important here — nothing goes to waste. Trimmings become sausage, fat is rendered for tallow and bones are used for stock. Arrive early to snag your favorites because once they’re out, they’re gone until the next day. For the full experience, build a platter with the smoky, tender tri-tip, char siu pork belly, Texas-style brisket, the sausage of the day and sides like kimchi cucumbers, mac and cheese, beans and spicy pickled chiles. You’ll leave with a full belly. Expansion plans include moving a 100-year-old barn to the property and starting dinner service.
Dishes at Mayfield may look familiar, but the flavors transport you somewhere far away. Ingredients from the Levant region such as date syrup, pomegranate glaze, Aleppo chile oil, za’atar, labneh, sumac, zhoug (a spicy cilantro condiment) and amba (a mango chutney) bring each dish to life. Fresh herbs like lemon thyme, cilantro and opal basil add a fragrant touch. A standout is the slow-braised lamb shank served with tabbouleh, four spreads, pickles and flatbreads. For a real deal, the $60-per-person supper club includes five dips, a variety of small and large plates and dessert. Mayfield offers natural wines and boasts an inventive cocktail list. On your way out, there’s an attached marketplace that sells spices and condiments from the menu as well as cookbooks and other pantry items.
The Swallow’s Inn consists of two rooms: There’s the bar, filled with classic red leather-topped stools, and a room strictly for dancing. Mondays feature a free two-stepping class, and Tuesdays are all about line dancing. There’s live music most days, and when a band’s not playing, a DJ will get you in the honky-tonk mood. If you get peckish, try the typical bar food consisting of Mexican-inspired fries, wings, hot dogs, hamburgers, tacos and quesadillas. If you want to really let loose, try a $3 Jell-O shot.
The drinks and coffees here are just as dynamic. Coffee syrups are made in-house, with flavors like lavender, tres leches, coconut cream and rose. The signature Kali coffee is made with macadamia milk, and the Calamansi Refresher is a bubbly citrusy drink that’ll transport you right to the Philippines. Owner Jasmin Gonzalez has big plans for Breezy: She’s getting ready to take over the shop next door to create a one-stop Filipino eatery and grocery, offering fresh-baked delicacies, coffee, brunch and dinner.
The a la carte menu offers treats like Bombay chicken curry and English pasty, but if you want the full bounty go for one of the high teas ($42 to $75). Each includes your choice of 58 loose-leaf teas, Damian’s grandma’s famous buttermilk scone, homemade raspberry preserves, traditional tea sandwiches and desserts like the decadent chocolate ganache bite with edible gold dust or the lemon curd mini Bundt with white chocolate icing and a fresh raspberry. The menu changes seasonally, and all herbs and flowers on the chintzware plates are grown in Damian’s grandparents’ garden next to the Tea House. Weekend and holiday reservations typically are booked four to six weeks in advance. Stop by the Tea House’s TEAque shop, where you can sniff the teas before you pick your favorite and shop for teapots, fascinators and gift sets.
With the goal to find the perfect doughnut for everyone, JD Flannel offers fritters and gluten-friendly and vegan options, all made in a nut-free facility. They skip preservatives and focus on high-quality ingredients such as Valrhona chocolate, Maldon sea salt and Madagascar vanilla; they even make their toppings like graham cracker crumbs, marshmallows and Key lime curd in-house. Seasonal flavors rotate monthly, with recent hits including Strawberry Milkshake, Raspberry Lemonade, S’Mores, Tres Leches and Snickerdoodle Crumble. And trust us — you don’t want to miss the Bananas Foster fritter; it’s a standout treat.We’ll help you find the best places to hike, bike and run, as well as the perfect silent spots for meditation and yoga.You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
