Coming up on its one-year anniversary this June 2019, Acova stays true to its neighborhood heritage and still manages to spark culinary creativity in the kitchen.
The old and the new are very tastefully blended at Acova Restaurant and Bar, making it a good fit for Denver's fast-changing LoHi neighborhood. The former resident of 3651 Navajo Street was a beloved Italian restaurant -- Patsy's Inn -- that stood the test of time for 95 years prior.
Bar seating is airy and full of locally sourced liquors, including vodka from Family Jones distillery down the street.
Betsy Workman, co-owner of Acova, is no stranger to the history of the spot. Workman pays homage to the neighborhood's Italian roots in several ways, including the restaurant's name itself. The name "Acova" is based on the Italian root "cova," which translates in English to "nest," a nod to the neighborhood nostalgia and comfort of community that the new restaurant hopes to foster.
Seared Ahi + Herb Polenta Cakes
"I'm so proud of the people we have and how everyone really is a part of this," states Workman. Having grown up with both parents as restaurant owners, she understands the value in a tight restaurant staff and how they often become like an extended family. With one other restaurant -- The Hornet -- already booming on South Broadway, the Workmans opened Acova in June 2018 and have infused it with creativity and playful elements.
Meatloaf Sandwich and Brussel Sprout + Kale Salad
When it comes to the food, Workman explains that "there's no ego here." The kitchen is led by a Kitchen Manager and a culinary staff that craft a robust and delicious menu, serving up everything from wings and nachos to seared ahi with polenta cakes -- and they do it all very well. The menu and the kitchen staff are very flexible, she states, and have no problem experimenting with new menu items or understanding when a patron needs a substitution.
"The guys love to play," Workman jests. This playfulness is certainly reflected in the tasty array of rotating $8 lunch specials Acova now offers. When we visited, the special was a meatloaf sandwich made with pork and beef on ciabatta bread with a ketchup and sriracha glaze ... not your mother's meatloaf sandwich, folks. It did not disappoint.
The hand-crafted decor is often engineered by Betsy Workman's own creativity.
"Things are always changing because I play constantly," Workman jokes. Her handiwork is evident in almost every element of the space, from the bird artwork that plays on the "nest" mentality to the painted picture frames and the hanging plants made out of mixing bowls. She also plugs her creative construction of the "nest" in the corner of the outdoor patio, filled with re-purposed materials like a metal oil drip pan for magnets, a Lego wall, and painted tires.
Workman's passion for supporting children is further reflected in the kids' menu she designed, where kids can order things like "Nothing" (a grilled cheese), "Whatever" (a PB+J), or "I Don't Know" (chicken fingers) and two dollars of the order is donated to a local children's charity.
The kids’ play area in the corner of the garden patio includes items Betsy Workman found in consignment shops and refurbished herself.
With an official patio opening planned tentatively for May, a popular lunch and dinner menu, and a growing brunch crowd, Acova is fitting into its new spot in LoHi quite comfortably. Friendly staff and an impressive happy hour (HINT: "The Misty" wine slushie is our guilty pleasure) are just the icing on the cake. So, be sure to add Acova to your list of neighborhood joints, because it looks like this spot is sticking around.
Have you been to Acova before? If so, what did you think? Sound off in the comments.
