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At Quiches & Pies, a mom-and-pop cafe tucked in the back of a Chandler strip mall, a sign reads: "We don't have Wi-Fi. Talk to each other. Pretend like it's 1995."

This is the casual counterpart to chef Fabrice Buschtetz and his wife Máiréad's Cuisine Wine and Bistro, a French restaurant in Chandler that's won the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence three times so far ('21, '22, '23).

On a recent weekend morning, the cafe was humming with conversations and laughter. Staff members remembered many customers by name. Framed photos and prints on the walls including a black and white photo of the Statue of Liberty in Paris, the Eiffel tower and a painting of a woman by Modigliani that read: "When I know your soul, I will paint your eyes," made it feel more like a Paris bistro than a restaurant in the Arizona suburbs.

Máiréad later told me she's had customers drive there from Glendale, Goodyear and even Tucson. "You have ingredients from France and two French chefs, each with 40 years of experience, right here. It's cheaper than going to Paris," she said with a smile.

While the ambiance is a draw, the food is the main event. "We don't put anything we can't pronounce in our food," said Máiréad. The bakery imports butter and chocolate from France and pistachios from Italy.

It's all about the namesake quiches

On my visit, customers debated over baskets of pastries set on the counter and peered at quiches in the large glass display case. Though there were nine quiches to choose from, by 9 a.m. the case already had empty plates.

As I spoke to people in line, I learned that most were first-timers. One had driven from east Mesa and another from central Phoenix. East Mesa placed an order with perfect French pronunciation and left with a large paper bag of pastries.

Just as I was getting worried about missing out on the kouign amann (there was only one left and the person in front of me ordered it), a kitchen staff member allayed my anxiety by taking the empty baskets and bringing them back filled with layers of almond croissants, pain au chocolate and kouign amann.

I ordered a kouign-amann ($6.50) and two quiche slices: a Flammiche plus a tomato and goat cheese quiche, both $9 per slice.

Quiches are heated up for those who stay at the cafe and served on plates custom-made with the cafe's insignia. Get them to go and you will receive heating instructions. I ordered mine, wistfully eyed the cozy corner with two yellow lounge chairs, which were occupied, then headed to one of the square wooden tables.

Food that's worth waiting for (more than once)

From my table, I watched the line of customers, which didn't let up for the two hours I was there. As patrons waited for their orders, they perused the black bookshelf displaying mugs, dishes and other trinkets by local artists. Then I noticed that after people finished their food, many would get back in line to order more treats to take home.

My pastry arrived first. Kouign-amann (pronounced queen ahman) is a Bretton pastry that's made with croissant dough and sugar and formed into petal-topped pastries inside cupcake-shaped molds. As the pastry bakes the sugar caramelizes. That day, mine was perfectly crispy on the outside and airy on the inside, but as soon as they arrived, the quiches stole the show.

Quiches are not known for their swashbuckling presence. But, my gosh these were delectable.

The Flammiche quiche featured leek and gruyere. The crisped cheese offered a toasted, nutty crunch before giving way to the unctuous custard, cheese and leek filling. I almost blurted, "Ah, j'adore" out loud, channeling my inner Emily in Paris.

Next, I dug into the tomato and pesto quiche. Half domes of golden brown cheese dappled the top. Ribbons of chartreuse pesto peaked through the white goat cheese and a tomato half added a pop of red. The cheese's tang was followed by a touch of nutmeg and a warm note of basil. How the chef makes the crust so uniformly thin and crispy, even on the bottom, is a testament to his French training and four decades of experience in the kitchen.

As I enjoyed my meal, I listened to the conversations floating around me. A patron sitting at the table behind me said: "For a bakery, this place is legit." Another added, "This is the best quiche I've ever had."

I had to ask what she was eating, so I turned to talk to her.

"Quiche Lorraine," she said, and her companion began to wax poetic about her own French sandwich and the owners' other restaurant. Soon, we were exchanging numbers to meet at the restaurant for happy hour. I suppose this is what having no Wi-Fi can do.

A little French cafe that offers an indulgent escape

Like many others before me, I got back in line to order a take-home goodie bag of pear and almond tarte Bourdaloue (don't skip it), a tarte tropézienne, a brioche bun halved, filled with pastry cream and sprinkled with pearl sugar and a slice of Provençale quiche (think ratatouille in quiche-form with Swiss cheese).

As I waited, my eyes fell on a wooden sign hanging on the kitchen door: "Ici le possible e deja fait, l'impossible est en cours. Pour les miracles prevoir 48 H de delai." Here the possible has already been done, the impossible is in progress. For miracles, allow 48 hours of delay.

It does seem miraculous that this place exists at all — a cafe that serves not only a distinctive taste of classic French baking, but also an environment that encourages community.

"People say every time we want something different, we have to drive to Scottsdale or Phoenix. And it's true," she said. "But we believe in Chandler. Our restaurant has been here for eight years and the community is wonderful, the mayor is wonderful and the chamber of commerce is wonderful. You know when you feel like you belong?"

I do now.

I can't wait to go back to try different quiches. I look forward to bringing my friends and making new ones. And you can bet your bottom dollar that every time I visit, I'll get back in that line at the end of my meal to load up on pastries so I can extend the fantasy a little longer with bites of Paris to enjoy at home.

Plan a visit to Quiches & Pies

Arrive by 9 a.m. for the widest selection of quiches and pastries.

Don't miss: Tomato, goat cheese and pesto quiche.

Ambiance: Warm and welcoming.

Noise level: Easy to hear conversations.

Dress code : Casual.

Prices: $9 per quiche slice, $3.50-$6.50 for pastries, $44 for whole quiches, $27 for whole pies.

Hours: 7 a.m.-2 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Monday.

Reservations: Not required.

Parking: Easy to find.

Details: 961 W. Ray Road, Chandler. 480-465-7168, quichesandpies.com .

Reach the reporter at . Follow @banooshahr on X, formerly known as Twitter .