When the rock ’n’ roll jeweler Stephen Webster was designing his new London flagship, he decided there was only one motif strong enough for one of its walls: a fish. So a backlit stained-glass window of a Japanese fighting fish will dominate the No Regrets bar at the four-level space, scheduled to open in May at the 19th-century Burlington Arcade.

He certainly has tapped into the motif of the season: Fish jewelry, which has been landing at stores and online sites, was in the spotlight last fall at many of the spring shows.

At the Schiaparelli show, Daniel Roseberry went for drama with a single long gilded brass earring in the shape of a fish skeleton, its tail encircling a pearl ($3,300 for a pair). At Roberto Cavalli, Fausto Puglisi sent out a brass swordfish pendant dangling from a chunky aluminum chain (price on application). And in his final collection for Bottega Veneta (before moving to Chanel), Matthieu Blazy went for a quirky effect, giving his 18-karat gold-plated silver fish earrings pearl bodies and agate eyes ($2,150).

Even the latest high jewelry collections had fish, such as Van Cleef & Arpels’ clip of diamond-studded fish swimming in a glittering ocean of 128 blue and mauve sapphires, weighing a total of 40.89 carats (price on application).

A heightened interest in sustainability most likely led to this school of fish pieces, said Colleen Hill, the senior curator of costume at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. After all, there are “concerns of a future lack of water and the concerns over pollution in our oceans and even pollution within the fish that people are eating,” Dr. Hill said, so such jewels are “a reference to the beauty of ocean life and a need to preserve that.”

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