Long a laid-back destination for anglers 50 miles off southeast Florida’s coast, Bimini is evolving into a destination for the every-tourist, with luxury resorts, transient cruise ships and a casino.

Today’s Bimini sees a steady stream of day-trippers out of Fort Lauderdale, spilling out of the high-speed Baleària Caribbean Ferry onto the island’s new ocean pier for a day on Paradise Beach, a dive trip or fishing charter.

Golf carts are the new Bimini. The every-tourist rents one to explore outside the resort bubble for a dash into the Bimini I used to know.

The Bimini I remember was a funky pit stop on the way to productive Bahamas fishing grounds. There were infamous lodges, like the historic Compleat Angler Hotel, where Ernest Hemingway bellied up to the bar, and the End of the World Saloon, another notorious trough for anglers.

I am drawn to Bimini by the sounds and soul of this small island paradise, not the ding-ding-ding of slot machines or the crisp bedsheets of a resort hotel.

Once off the ferry, we took the free tram to Fisherman’s Village at Resorts World, where arrivals go their separate ways: dive trips, charter fishing, golf carts or the casino. We grabbed a taxi for the two-mile trip to our beach cottage.

A small army of day-trippers, obvious in their swimsuits and daypacks, were beach bound, planning to get back on the ferry in just a few hours. I couldn’t figure that out. Seems like a lot of money and hassle to spend an afternoon at the beach.

We were staying three nights at a no-frills cottage on a quiet beach in Alice Town, the historic heart of Bimini. Our beach was beautiful, simple and isolated, allowing us to swim and float without having to wade through a tidal wave of tourists. Our beach was empty.

Quiet, but in the distance, we could hear the sounds of the island — a whisper of reggae floating down from the bars at Radio Beach, a popular gathering place for locals and curious visitors like us.

We took a walk down the beach road to a cluster of colorful beachfront shacks at Radio Beach, where we could sit on the deck at CJ’s overlooking the beach with a beer, cracked conch and spiced shrimp.

The authentic Bimini is still there. Take a walk.

Around the corner from our cottage was the wildly colorful Dolphin House Museum, a privately owned attraction with exterior covered in salvaged tiles, beach glass, dolphin murals and conch shells. The museum was built with recycled and salvaged materials by Bimini author, educator and historian Ashley Saunders and is open for tours. Tour the museum ($10), or engage Mr. Saunders for a walking tour of this historic neighborhood.

There’s a straw market with straw hats, local artwork and T-shirts near the Old Customs House on Kings Highway, catering to passing golf-cart tourists and guests at nearby lodgings. It’s just down the hill from Radio Beach.

Our best meal in Bimini was at The Anchorage on the ground floor of the family-owned Bimini Bluewaters Hotel in its historic wooden lodge. We discovered it while walking along the beach road and saw two couples eating inside. No signs, just an open gate, so we walked through.

I chose a local fish dish, which was excellent, and my wife enjoyed the fried chicken dinner offered that evening. Outstanding. We paid our tab — cash only — at the bar.

The next day we walked along the beach to Bailey Town, another residential area for local residents, and picked up lunch at a small takeout shack on Queen’s Highway.

I would be remiss not to mention the Bimini Big Game Club and Marina, another iconic lodging with a restaurant and notorious bar, not far from Hemingway’s digs in the Compleat Angler.

Hemingway slept here

Hemingway lived at the Compleat Angler from 1935 to 1937. It was here that he wrote “To Have and Have Not,” which was published in 1937. His Bimini adventures planted the seeds for other novels, especially “Islands in the Stream,” which was published posthumously in 1970.

The Compleat Anger’s rustic bar was a gathering place for fishermen and locals. I’ve had a few beers there myself, admiring its walls replete with photos of Hemingway posing with his catch.

Hemingway chose Bimini for big-game fishing aboard his boat, Pilar. He liked to fish. He fished a lot. When he wasn’t fishing in Bimini, he was fishing in the waters off Cuba or Key West. An exact replica of Pilar is on display at World Wide Sportsman on Islamorada in the Florida Keys.

The Compleat Angler burned down in 2008, leaving a vacuum, but historic Alice Town and Bailey Town survive, a bulwark against the development that some say has cursed the island.

If you go

The Baleària Caribbean Ferry departs Port Everglades (2021 Eller Drive, Terminal 21 Fort Lauderdale) for Bimini three days a week at 9 a.m., arriving in Bimini at 11 a.m., and returns at 8 p.m., arriving back in Fort Lauderdale at 10 p.m. Arrive two hours before departure. Add an hour each way for customs.

Base fare is $155 round trip for a day trip plus a $70 booking fee per person. The fare is higher if you book your round trip over multiple days. Other options include premium seating (with early boarding) and beach amenities (cabanas, chairs, etc.). Included in your fare is a handbag or backpack and a small carry-on (up to 26 pounds).

If you would rather fly: Passenger service to South Bimini is available from United Airlines and Silver Airways from Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport. Fares start at $200 each way for the 45-minute flight. You can book a seaplane on Tropic Ocean Airways from Fort Lauderdale or Palm Beach International Airport. Fares run $300 and up in each direction.

Passports required: A valid passport or passport card is required to enter Bimini and for the return to the U.S. Travelers must also go through customs in both directions.

Currency: U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere.

Travel motes: Islanders use Whatsapp as their primary messaging tool, and Wi-Fi is widely available. Download the app to your phone before you go to avoid international roaming charges for cellular service.

Where to stay

Katt’s Kottages, Queens Highway, Alice Town. This is where we stayed on the beach in Alice Town. Nothing fancy, our cottage was simple and clean with a bedroom, kitchenette and living room; our hosts were gracious and accommodating. Info: kattskottages.com , +1 (242) 359-8009.

Resorts World, North Bimini. A full-service luxury resort with a casino, marina, beach, swimming pools and the Fisherman’s Village retail center. Info: rwbimini.com, 1-888-930-8688.

Things to do

Eclipse Bicycle Rentals and Tours will rent you a beach cruiser bicycle for $25 per day. Eclipse also offer land and sea tours of the islands, including a beach tour. Info: eclipserentalsbimini.com, 242-808-1450.

Historian and educator Ashley Sanders of the Dolphin House Museum offers a cultural and historical walking tour. Call 242-473-2394.