T here are echoes of Istanbul’s past as a glamorous seaside city everywhere, from the grand summer mansions on the Princes’ Islands, an archipelago in the sea of Marmara, to the waterfront promenades in inner-city districts. Before the city’s expansion from the 1950s onwards, many of the neighbourhoods that are now considered inner districts were beach resorts where the Istanbul elites would spend summers in their second homes. Although you may not immediately think of spending a day at the beach when you visit, you should: there are plenty of spots where you can take a dip in the surprisingly clean waters, party among the beautiful people at fashionable beach clubs, or simply lie back and escape the stresses of the city. If you’re an early
riser, make like the hardy old men who dive in for a morning swim in all seasons before going about their day. Slightly further afield, there are plenty of wilder beaches on the Black Sea and Sea of Marmara which can be easily reached in a day trip. Expect to pay entrance fees for the best spots — but there are still some lesser-known stretches that you can visit for free. 1. Uzunya beach, Kilyos
This deep natural harbour on the Black Sea at the very tip of the Bosphorus Strait is the most Instgrammable of Istanbul ’s beaches. It has golden sands and a deep blue sea, and in the height of summer you can (almost) imagine you’re on the Med, although the bracing coldness of the water will bring you back to reality with a not-unpleasant jolt. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot dolphins playing in the bay. Advertisement
2. Solar Beach, Kilyos
The best-known beach club on Istanbul’s Black Sea coast, Solar Beach hosts live music events every weekend throughout the summer, attracting a young, party-loving crowd. Swimming is way down on the list of attractions here, although the sea here is calmer than at many other nearby spots. There are beach volleyball courts and surfing lessons on offer, but if serious swimming is your thing, there is also an outdoor pool. 3. Kumbaba beach, Sile
A long stretch of sandy beach in the popular Black Sea resort town of Sile, Kumbaba was popular as far back as the Byzantine era, when bathers came to ease their rheumatism in its reputedly healing waters. These days its main attraction is its campsite, where you can pitch your tent or park up your caravan just metres from the water, which is the cleanest you’ll find around Istanbul. 4. Florya Gunes Plaji, city centre
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This is the biggest public beach in the centre of Istanbul and a stark reminder that this metropolis of 16 million was once considered a seaside city. It’s surprisingly clean given its proximity to the churn of the city and the sheer numbers who visit it — come early if you decide to visit, especially on a weekend. Its location on the European side makes it the perfect place to unwind for a few hours before you head back into the whirl of urban life. 5. Eskibag beach, Buyukada
The biggest of the Princes’ Islands is often overcrowded in summer, but you can find a more secluded vibe at Eskibag, tucked away on the undeveloped southern tip of the island. You’ll have to take one of the electric buggies to get here, but once you arrive there’s everything needed for a full day of swimming and sunbathing. With its forest backdrop, it’s easy to forget you’re so close to the city. 6. Tirmata Beach, Kilyos
This beach club on Istanbul’s Black Sea shore is huge: 2,500 sun loungers and a large terrace and grassy area to boot. The restaurant serves up traditional Turkish cuisine – think grilled fish and mezze – and has a regular programme of live music. No wonder it’s a popular wedding venue for fashionable Istanbulites (if you’re planning a proposal, the club can arrange that too). This is one of the few beach clubs in the area with facilities specifically for children and there is a surf school catering to all levels. Advertisement
7. Summer beach, Silivri
The beaches in Silivri, a small town on the Sea of Marmara just outside Istanbul, are easily reachable on a day trip but far less visited than those on the city’s Black Sea side. As a result, most of the spaces here are free to enter but still have great facilities and there’s an old-world seaside vibe that’s hard to find anywhere else in Turkey. Summer beach, with its long stretch of golden sand, is one of the most popular spots. 8. Sut Koyu beach, Burgazada
There are no facilities on this small pebble beach on one of the less-visited Princes’ Islands, but that means that you’re more likely to swerve the crowds if you come in July and August. It’s unknown even to most Istanbulites, and to reach it you’ll need a map and some decent shoes — though once you do you’re guaranteed one of the most peaceful spots in the city. There’s a small tea house a ten-minute walk away. 9. Bizimkoy Fire Beach, Silivri
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On the southwestern fringe of Istanbul, you’ll find a clutch of cute seaside towns that feel a million miles from the metropolis. The biggest and easiest to reach is Silivri, where there are a clutch of decent beaches: Bizimkoy has the youngest vibe, with a bar, regular live events, and a fun, friendly atmosphere that means you’ll almost certainly make new friends. The beach itself is a lovely stretch of golden sand on the generally calm Sea of Marmara; arrive early to get a spot right at the waterside. 10. Burc Beach, Kilyos
One of the best-kept and most beautiful beaches around Istanbul, this is the place to come for water sports, including windsurfing and kitesurfing. It’s a private beach owned by Bosphorus University so you’ll have to pay a small entrance fee but it’s well worth it for its excellent facilities, sunset parties and festival vibe in the evening, when revellers gather around campfires on the sand. 11. Elio beach, Sedef Adasi
Sedef Adasi is the most exclusive of the Princes’ Islands since it’s not included on the route of the main ferries from the city centre. Take a smaller boat from the Bostanci ferry terminal on the Asian side of the city, then head for Elio: a small beach club which hosts live DJs and has a restaurant serving delicious Turkish and international dishes. Advertisement
12. Agva, Sile
Some of the wildest coastal scenery in Turkey can be found around the village of Agva, a couple of hours’ drive from central Istanbul. This is the point where two rivers flow into the Black Sea and there are lots of lovely wooden guesthouses and restaurants built along the banks. Expect to uncover hidden bays, ancient ruins and caves in the area too, though the sea is often a little too rough for swimming. 13. Armutlu beach, Yalova
If you’re up for travelling a bit further out of Istanbul, venture towards the Yalova province on the Sea of Marmara. This region has become popular with tourists and second-home buyers from the Gulf in recent years due to its temperate climate and healing hot springs. Armutlu is a large, modern resort reminiscent of those on the Med and there’s plenty here to keep both children and adults entertained. 14. Cilingoz beach, Catalca
This beach is a nature park on the sea, where you can hike through protected forests before hitting the sand and the waves. It’s a paradise for wildlife and birdspotters, with hawks, woodpeckers and owls living here, and for anglers who can fish in the Cilingoz creek. Istanbulites love it as a picnic spot and there’s a small campsite for those who want to get away from the city. 15. Akcakese beach, Sile
One of the most unspoilt beaches on the Black Sea, Akcakese is a couple of natural bays fringed with white sand, against a backdrop of grassy bluffs. Facilities are basic but its draw is that it feels truly wild, in stark contrast to the brash beach clubs on other parts of the coast. There are camping spots available and some basic B&Bs in the nearby village. 16. Caddebostan beach, city centre
Don’t expect scale or luxury from this beach on the Asian side’s fashionable Kadikoy district — there are some changing cabins, a tea stall and that is it. But you can take your recommendation from the local old men who come here for early morning swims in all seasons. The water is cleaner than you might think and it’s a bracing way to start your day. You also find large grassy parks right behind — perfect for a picnic.
