I don’t know about you, but for me, keeping up with Atlanta’s restaurant scene can be, in a word, overwhelming. Even for someone who covers food for a living, it’s a challenge to monitor the relentless pace of change in our city. Throw in a historic water main break and the closing of some of our favorite places, and it can border on heartbreaking. It’s been two years since the magazine’s last “ best new restaurants ” roundup, so, for this issue, we decided to backtrack a little further than usual, to early summer 2023, so we could include more restaurants. Because, you know, what with the topsy-turvy state of the world and all, you may have missed a few.

A recent industry report from the National Restaurant Association confirms what you already know: Costs (food and labor) are up, staffing is an issue, competition is fierce, consumers want value, and, yes, people still love restaurants. Eating out offers respite from cooking at home but also comfort, entertainment, connection, and discovery of new tastes and cultures. Bottom line: Y’all still want what restaurants have to offer.

And we want you to enjoy the best experiences out there. So read on, take notes, and prepare to dine, my friend. There’s a lot of goodness being served up, and plenty more to come.

Buttermilk Biscuit
Restaurant owner LeAnna Lynn found a way to pour her expertise in marketing and branding into a delightful business batter, which combines biscuit obsession, winning brunch recipes, banging craft cocktails, and a focus on customer service. Lynn’s vigilance on all fronts has kept this modest College Park dining room packed, not just on weekends but on most weekdays. And that’s no small feat in this corner of the Tri-Cities, where there is some serious competition for the mimosa-sipping, fried-chicken-and-waffle-loving throngs. The diversity of her patrons is broad and includes office workers, tourists, girlfriend gatherings, solo diners, couples, and families with children. The vibe leans more community than party scene—though, that said, the chatter and alcohol flow as easily as the maple syrup come noontime, and the piped-in music adds a popping vibe to the room. There are no TVs, as Lynn prefers to encourage connection and conversation. And to those who say the room is “tight,” a criticism that Lynn chose not to ignore, she has signed a lease for the spot next door and plans to build an archway connecting another dining room space this fall.

Du Bu Gong Bang
As long as there have been Korean restaurants in Atlanta, there has been tofu. Du Bu Gong Bang—a Duluth newcomer specializing in heavenly soft tofu stews, served in hazardously hot stone bowls—elevates the experience.

Du Bu Gong Bang crafts its next-level bean curd every day from organic, non-GMO beans imported from South Korea—an artful process that yields luxuriously silken curds. Therefore, every visit should begin with a pot of soon dubu (soft tofu) stew, be it plain and snowy white, spiked with fiery red kimchi, or nestled among oysters. While the kitchen works its magic, nibble from the tray of complimentary banchan (side dishes); sip tea, beer, soju (a clear spirit traditionally made from rice), or makgeolli (milky rice wine); and familiarize yourself with the setup—chopsticks, spoons, and napkins are tucked away in a drawer at one end of the table.

The centerpiece of your meal—that bubbling mini cauldron of custardy tofu in hot liquid—arrives in a rush of steam and drama. This is your cue to scoop rice into your bowl, ladle it over with stew, and drink in the warm, soul-centering pleasure of glorious tofu.

But that’s not all. Du Bu Gong Bang also offers solid Korean barbecue (our favorite dish is the sticky-sweet, L.A. kalbi–style short ribs); crispy-skinned grilled mackerel; and killer jeon (pancakes) stuffed with seafood and scallion or kimchi and squid. These fat, greasy-in-a-good-way savories just might give the tofu a run for its money.

Ginsberg’s Refresher
Bringing a food truck to Wild Heaven Beer in Avondale Estates was a good idea. But what made it genius was persuading chef Todd Ginsberg (The General Muir, as well as Krog Street Market’s Fred’s Meat & Bread and Yalla) to work his sandwich magic on a freewheeling menu. The masterful Ginsberg can play it casual, for sure, but he is no stranger to loftier epicurean endeavors. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he is a veteran of hoity-toity fine dining rooms in New York, and the mastermind behind Atlanta’s iconic Bocado burger of the mid-aughts and Howell Mill dining days of old.

Ginsberg was pretty much a yes from the beginning. He was a fan of Wild Heaven brews (he’s partial to their pilsner-style Emergency Drinking Beer—“it drinks well with everything”), and he liked the taproom’s community vibe and kid- and dog-friendly courtyard. It wasn’t long before a glistening blue-green truck from Texas rolled up and local designer Rob Herrema created the nostalgic logo, based on an old gas station sign that Ginsberg had seen in Highlands, North Carolina. Ginsberg’s chef/partner, Eli Quintero (formerly of Rumi’s Kitchen), handles the day-to-day, prepping in the brewery and finishing the cooking in the kitchen of the food truck, where diners pick up their food after ordering from inside at the brewery counter.

The Little Hippo
If you have lived on the east side of town for as long as I have, you have witnessed several extraordinary transformations. Twenty years ago, Decatur became an almost-overnight sensation, shedding its poky, sleepy image to become a sort of Berkeley of the South. Since then, East Atlanta, East Lake, and Kirkwood have re-created themselves. To me, the biggest surprise of all has been Avondale Estates, a sort of suburban Brigadoon with a Tudor village, a secret lake, and quietly luxurious streets, which now host remarkable restaurants, breweries, and gourmet merchants. The latest to join the fray is The Little Hippo, named after Aaron and Jamie Russell’s pit bull mix. Aaron is one of the best-pedigreed chefs in town (see his notable work at Poor Hendrix, which he and his wife also own). The Little Hippo’s setting, entirely outdoors, with an expanse of Astroturf surrounded by real vegetation in giant planters, attracts a crowd. Children and dogs frolic while parents order sophisticated sandwiches, fun cocktails, and an array of soups, sides, and desserts I can vouch for.

Little Sparrow
Ford Fry’s latest hot spot swaps one type of comfort for another. Out with JCT Kitchen’s famed fried chicken; in with thrice-fried frites, rich raclette, and melt-in-your-mouth onion soup. Executive chef Bob Ryan is no stranger to butter, putting a hearty touch on French bistro–inspired fare. A complimentary baguette with salted butter starts off every meal on the right note. Addictive pillowy ricotta gnudi are served cacio e pepe style (with Parmesan and black pepper). The signature dish, La Vie en Rose, offers a creative spin on steak frites, with the steak served haché (as minced beef, re-formed into a patty) rather than as a slab of meat. Most entrees, from seafood to meat, come with tableside sauce pours for extra-indulgent flair. Tantalizing chocolate soufflé takes an extra 15 minutes to prepare, but you’ll need that time to digest anyway. After a meal like this, we prefer pastry chef Chrysta Poulos’s “fancy” soft-serve ice cream, swirled high with olive oil, honey, and fennel pollen or anointed with seasonal fruit and ample vanilla crumble.

Balancing the heavier food, cocktails are light and bright. The Second Verse adds a dollop of red wine to an effervescent combination of vodka, lemon, club soda, and pamplemousse, resulting in a float. Le Petit Martini is simple and classic, served ice-cold for a respectable $10. Add in a nice by-the-bottle wine list and a buzzy bar, and Little Sparrow is just as good a place to grab a drink and app as it is for dinner.

The space, too, has been transformed, abandoning a farmhouse-chic interior in favor of a moody brasserie look. Molded ceilings and patterned tile floors complement dark leather booths and wooden tables, eliciting warmth. Large windows look out onto the lush and convivial courtyard, bringing a bit of the outdoors in. Upstairs, Bar Blanc offers cocktails and steak frites in a more intimate yet stylish atmosphere.

Nàdair
From Woodfire Grill to Gunshow to Revival, we’ve followed chef Kevin Gillespie without hesitation, and gladly. And with his memorable turns as a popular contestant on Top Chef , we’ve followed his story and his menus ever since. When his latest venture called for a trip, culinarily speaking, to Scotland, there was pause—but for how long, really, a minute? With one red-bearded, kilt-clad chef at the helm, reservations were booked weeks out from the start.

Nàdair means “the way of nature” in Scots Gaelic, and the restaurant is an homage to Gillespie’s Scottish heritage and boyhood trips across the pond. The menu also nods to time spent with relatives in the South and summer vacations in the state of Maine.

A huntsman-inspired bar is your point of entry. Mementos hither and yon draw the eye: framed swatches of the family tartan, game bird illustrations, inherited World War I military caps, Scottish and North American deer antlers, a chest of heirloom silverware, and clusters of vintage glassware. Ask, and your bartender (the masterful Eric Simpkins) may share stories about the Celtic bric-a-brac as he pours whiskey cocktails, herbal and citrusy gimlets, and sparkling punches, or whips up an impromptu libation, as is his wont. It’s a spirited prelude to eating a la carte at the bar or before prix fixe dining in the main room.

Facing the woodlands of Zonolite Park, the dining room’s foresty ambience is underscored by woven rugs in a teal and peach tartan, tan leather banquettes, wooden dividers, and walls painted in serene greens. This pleasantly mossy milieu is the backdrop for stunning starters, such as oven-roasted Georgia mushrooms with a fried farm egg, torn bread, and swirl of red wine hollandaise, or Scottish cheese dumplings paired with braised cabbage, crispy onions, and cheddar. Among the on-point mains are grilled scallop and peach-glazed pork belly, and wood-grilled Wagyu beef coulotte. A short list of dreamy desserts (creamy pie, spiked trifle, spiced and fruit-topped ice cream, and figgy shortcake) impresses. But the evening’s scene-stealer is the heavenly knot of a dinner roll called an Aberdeen Buttery.

Pata Negra
For more than 20 years, chef Octavio Aguirre dreamed of opening a restaurant specializing in mezcal, and today, that dream has come true with Pata Negra. The mezcalería was an idea that felt almost impossible when he arrived in Atlanta 11 years ago, as the city’s palate was unfamiliar with the kind of Mexican food that he wanted to serve. Diving into his experience working the maguey fields, growing the plant that’s essential for producing Mexican spirits, as well as helping his family sell tacos as a child, Aguirre brings the flavors of rural Mexico to Atlanta. Those flavors are rooted in such ingredients as corn, chiles, beans, and Mexican herbs. Through his food, Aguirre offers a true reflection of himself and his story.

A visit to Pata Negra in Brookwood Hills, on Peachtree Road, should start with Carne Apache to share—a beef tartare elevated with chipotle, dried peppers, and fresh Mexican herbs. Temporada de Lluvias (“Rain Season”), a dish honoring the time of year when crops flourish, features risotto with huitlacoche—a corn fungus with a truffle-like taste—paired with perfectly seared scallops and the rich flavor of poblano peppers. Aguachile de carne encenizado is a favorite. Typically, aguachile is made with seafood, but, giving a nod to the rancher’s land that Aguirre grew up on, the teres major (a flavorful cut of beef also known as the petite tender) is the star of a dish where the smokiness of roasted habanero peppers meets citrusy lime sauce.

Despite the variety of dishes, they all have one thing in common: They honor the land. Aguirre’s signature cooking technique is turning ingredients such as tortillas, peppers, corn, and garlic into ashes by cooking them over the fire, then incorporating them into the dishes for complexity and smokiness. The smokiness in the dishes, including the desserts by chef Ricky Saucedo, is a reflection of the flavor of Pata Negra’s main character, the mezcal. Sip on some rare, limited-edition, and collectible mezcals through an almost spiritual mezcal tasting that starts with lighting up sage and palo santo to set the tone right at your table. The mysterious atmosphere of the restaurant, with its smoky black walls and dim lights, carries the experience beyond the menu.

Pendolino
Sometimes a new restaurant comes along at the right time, in the right place, and within weeks it becomes the neighborhood go-to. And so it is with Pendolino, an Italian-inspired establishment named after an olive tree variety, with a casual trattoria vibe but seriously swanky flair and a crowd-pleasing menu. This is chef Kevin Maxey’s first time out as an owner. The restaurant veteran, formerly known as Ford Fry’s right-hand man, found an ideal spot tucked inside Chastain Market, just off Roswell Road in Sandy Springs. With an airy and well-appointed main dining room, quiet back room, elegant marble-topped bar, and stylish patio, the setup works for dinner meetups, small celebrations, after-work cocktails, or solo dining—a versatile hub for its tony patrons.

Pizza Verdura Sincera
Vegans of Atlanta: Rejoice! There’s a new pizza spot in town with entirely plant-based pies, using ingredients that are certified organic, non-GMO, or kosher. And it lives up to the hype. Nonvegans of Atlanta: Don’t be scared. You’re going to love it too.

Pizza Verdura Sincera in Little Five Points started turning out pizzas from plants at the end of April, and the veg pies are sincerely fantastico. Executive chef Robert Hart is cooking up pizzas in an irresistible combination of New York and Neapolitan styles. Each pizza has a center that’s bubbly and foldable and holds toppings well, with outer edges featuring a crust that is airy, crisp, and chewy. One of our favorite pies is the Come La Carne. It marries a classic margherita of housemade plum tomato sauce and plant-based mozzarella with vegan pepperoni and sausage, producing such incredible taste and texture that even the most skeptical carnivores will find it difficult to believe that it’s vegan. It’s a pizza full of flavor and feeling.

Other hits include the unique Messicano, which comes with a vegan mozzarella and cheddar blend, topped with spicy vegan sausage, sweet and hot peppers, roasted corn, onions, garlic, and ginger. A seasonal off-menu pizza called Bianca con Funghi has a delicious white sauce, dollops of black truffle and sea salt ricotta, wild mushrooms, and a balsamic glaze. Owner David Smith says more seasonal pies are in the works.

Raik Mediterranean
Faiq Usman tiptoes through his kitchen every morning. He moves slowly but surely, striking his pen on a notepad to mark low inventory on ingredients such as allspice, chickpeas, and lamb shanks. When his staff arrive, an hour later, he sends them off to shop in preparation for an intense night of cooking for a full house. Although it’s routine for any chef, Usman views inventory as a ritual. He emulates his grandmother, who raised him in Galilee. She catered weddings for their Palestinian community, and as a kid, Usman snuck into the kitchen to watch his grandmother lead the show and delegate tasks to the other village matriarchs in order to feed up to 700 people. When he was a teenager, he stepped into the kitchen and learned her recipes.

Usman is the co-owner and chef of Raik Mediterranean, an upscale Palestinian restaurant in Suwanee that opened in March 2024. The restaurant is a family affair, with the extensive menu featuring many of his grandmother’s recipes in the form of spreads, meze, salads, kebabs, and mains such as lamb shank and housemade falafel. Usman’s wife, Jilan Aboneaaj, helped design the interior with cream-colored tiles, deep sage banquettes, and olive trees that pay homage to their shared Palestinian culture. The name Raik honors the proprietor’s late older brother, who died when Usman was a teenager. “The restaurant is much larger than anything I’ve done,” he says. “Everything from the design to the recipes is so intensive, but when you see the reviews, I feel so fulfilled.”

In 2009, Usman immigrated to Ann Arbor, Michigan, where his brother owned and operated Haifa Falafel, a fast-casual joint that served falafel and shawarma off the spit. Usman married Aboneaaj in 2013, moved to Atlanta, and opened Cafe Raik in 2014, another Middle Eastern fast-casual place. The cafe succeeded for years through takeout and delivery, but the Covid-19 pandemic hurt business. “We looked around Atlanta at the time, and saw only Persian restaurants with high-level Mediterranean food,” Usman says. “We felt we could do something bigger and bring the flavors from the Palestine/Lebanon region to the same level.”

The spices Usman uses set the restaurant apart from other local upscale Mediterranean spots, such as Delbar or Rumi’s, that use Persian flavors of sumac or saffron. Usman leans on za’atar, cumin, and Palestinian olive oil to create a distinct nutty flavor. In the fried kibbeh, Usman uses pine nuts mixed with cumin-spiced bulgur wheat and ground beef. The Palestinian Mhammar flatbread (taboon) features shredded chicken in a sumac spice blend with sauteed onions and roast tomato that hits like comfort food. Even Middle Eastern mainstays stand out, such as lamb shank, which did fall off the bone, paired with a sweet-and-sour tomato pomegranate sauce.

Southern National
The larger-than-life personality of stand-up comic, chef, and all-around eccentric Duane Nutter is on full display at this restaurant, where he cooks and personally expedites singular food you will love. A gentle giant, he prepares exuberant dishes like no other. He earned Atlanta’s pride when, together with business partner and jack-of-all-trades Reginald Washington, he started the best airport restaurant in the country: One Flew South, on Concourse E of Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport. After several years in Mobile, Alabama, he is back as a James Beard Award finalist and among the best chefs in the Atlanta area. The bread service alone (sheet-pan biscuits, johnnycakes, and more, with suitable accompaniments such as peach chutney, cane syrup butter, and jalapeños) is worth the trip.

Two Fish Myanmar
Clarkston, an almost unprecedented community some call the Ellis Island of the South, is a center for immigrant and refugee relocation and assistance. Never particularly slick but fascinatingly diverse, the little city that could just got a spectacular example of new urbanism. Two rows of pristine white buildings face one another with an attractive courtyard in between; the tenants are all small restaurants owned by immigrant cooks. Anchored by an evangelical church, the development is home to Ethiopian, Middle Eastern, and Burmese businesses. The sorely missed Two Fish Myanmar, formerly a house restaurant with limited hours on the other side of I-285, is now going all out in a tiny dining room with a tidy counter and a two-sided ledge open to the outdoors.

Plus 12 more to check out



2024 Dining Trends



A break from routine
Get out of bed, go to work, come home, rinse, repeat. As an escape from this monotony, “third spaces ” are locations to relax, get away, and recharge social batteries. They can be anything from a park bench to a library, but, like most things, third spaces are better when they involve food. You may already frequent Decatur’s The Reading Room , a book- and laptop-friendly hangout with a wine and coffee bar, plus small bites. Or the aptly named Your 3rd Spot , an arcade and bowling alley at The Works on Chattahoochee Row, with an eclectic array of appetizers and gourmet flatbreads.

Cocktail Trend: Umami
At this year’s Tales of the Cocktail , the international conference for the spirits and bar industry held annually in New Orleans, attendees were introduced to a host of inspired new libations from some of the world’s best bartenders. One noticeable trend was the number of drinks with umami profiles . The drinks varied in complexity and ranged from subtle seaweed and tomato to more pronounced flavors, such as mushrooms and miso. They may seem strange as ingredients, but in the hands of a professional bartender, these savory, funky, earthy additions make for a memorable cocktail experience.

Digital Tastemakers
Love ’em or hate ’em, food influencers are here to stay. Alongside traditional food journalists and critics, social media content creators shape the conversation around local dining, helping Atlantans decide where to eat. There’s a big difference, though: Typically, established food critics—like ours at Atlanta—review restaurants anonymously and pay on their publisher’s dime. But many food influencers, some with huge followings on Instagram and TikTok, have their meals comped by the restaurant, and often collect a fee on top to promote newer businesses. (Federal guidelines instruct influencers to disclose such payments, but it doesn’t always happen.)

That said, a positive post from a “foodfluencer” can send a restaurant’s sales through the roof. Below, a few of our favorite food influencers who are spreading the good news about Atlanta’s dining scene.

@atlantafoodguy
Follow for: Bold and tasty videos from Atlanta’s “Mr. Bleu Cheese,” heavy on the meat (though with the occasional vegan-spot shoutout).

@atlanta_foodyyyyy
Follow for: Further-afield restaurants worth the drive, especially East Asian gems in culinary hot spots like Duluth and Suwanee.

@atllovesmo
Follow for: Inspirations for romantic date nights and dazzle-the-in-laws brunch spots.

@gourmetangiie
Follow for: Celebrity chef reviews of new restaurants and lounges, plus the occasional video of megastar rappers devouring Angie’s cooking.

This article appears in our October 2024 issue.

CONTINUE READING
RELATED ARTICLES